How to dress for your body shape
The styling moves that work with your physique, not against it, to make you look better in seconds
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Nothing in men’s style matters as much as fit. A suit made by artisans from the world’s finest wool will look worse than one from the high street if the legs are too long or the jacket’s too tight to button up. “Bad fit doesn’t just mean you have to keep pulling your trousers up,” says Thread stylist Freddie Kemp. “It’s also unflattering. It creates an odd, awkward silhouette that never looks good.”
A lot of men mistake ‘fit’ for ‘size’. “But they’re different things,” says Freddie. “It’s more about how well something conforms to your body. A ‘large’ sweatshirt, for example, is cut differently by every brand. One version might fit because it’s similar to your shape, while another – which is technically the same size – could be too big in the arms but too small in the chest.”
To tell whether an item will fit like a glove, or like a sack, you first need to be familiar with your own shape. “Your body changes as you get older,” says Freddie. “Is your chest the same? Your waist? Grab a tape measure – it’s a five-minute check that can make a huge difference.” Then quiz your stylist; they’re intimate with the fits of every brand, so will be able to tell you which are right for you – and which aren’t.
But the most important thing is knowing what great fit actually looks like. “A lot of guys have an image in their head, but it’s not quite right,” says Freddie. Clothes look best when they echo the shape of the body underneath. When there’s too much fabric – or not enough – an outfit looks like it’s fighting the man inside, rather than flattering him.
“You shouldn’t compromise,” says Freddie. “Great fit makes everything look better, so don’t just put up with stuff that isn’t quite right. Try on different brands and styles to figure out what suits your body best. Your limbs are different to everyone else’s and you’ll have specific things you want to mask or accentuate.” Let the guide below be your cheat sheet to perfect fit, every time.
Photographed: Paul Smith blazer (£530); Paul Smith jumper (£150); MVP shirt (£26); Paul Smith chinos (£125)
Key areas
Freddie says: “If you can fold your arms comfortably, that’s a good sign that your blazer fits. The shoulders are the most important thing; everything else can be tailored. And it should be – a jacket will rarely fit perfectly first time because men’s bodies are so different. It won’t cost much, but will make your jacket look exponentially better.”
What can be tailored? Almost everything apart from the shoulders, but the most important ones are sleeve length, hem length and waist suppression.
Photographed: Reiss shirt (£95); Jigsaw trousers (£130); Jigsaw tie (£50)
Key areas
Freddie says: “Guys often wear shirts that are too small, which can knock you out of proportion. Like with a blazer, you should have enough room to move around. Try lifting or folding your arms – if it’s not baggy, or constrictive, it probably fits.”
What can be tailored? The body can be nipped in if it’s too roomy around your waist and you can have the sleeve length adjusted.
Photographed: Reiss overcoat (£325); Reiss suit (£475); Reiss shirt (£95); T.M Lewin tie (£39.95)
Key areas
Freddie says: “Don’t be tempted to size up. If you wear a 42” chest blazer, you want a 42” overcoat; brands will build in the extra room for layers. Ideally it should work with just a t-shirt underneath too. If it’s too big, you need to wear a lot of layers underneath, so it’s only useful when the weather’s really cold.”
What can be tailored? The sleeves and the hem, but it will be a bit more expensive.
Photographed: Edwin jeans (£100); MVP t-shirt (£12); Oliver Sweeney belt (£99); Grenson boots (£245)
Key areas
Freddie says: “If you can’t move in your jeans, they don’t fit. Often the hardest thing is getting something that fits in the thigh and the waist. A lot of guys will size up, when really you need a different fit: if a skinny is too tight around your legs, a slim fit is better than a skinny that’s baggy around your waist.”
What can be tailored: The hems and the waist.